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French Luxury Group Kering to Buy 30% Stake in Valentino for 1.7 Billion Euros Cash 

Italian fashion designer Valentino, right, standing underneath the logo of his fashion house, answers the questions of a fashion reporter prior to the presentation of his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2008 fashion collection, on Jan. 23, 2008, in Paris. (AP)
Italian fashion designer Valentino, right, standing underneath the logo of his fashion house, answers the questions of a fashion reporter prior to the presentation of his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2008 fashion collection, on Jan. 23, 2008, in Paris. (AP)
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French Luxury Group Kering to Buy 30% Stake in Valentino for 1.7 Billion Euros Cash 

Italian fashion designer Valentino, right, standing underneath the logo of his fashion house, answers the questions of a fashion reporter prior to the presentation of his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2008 fashion collection, on Jan. 23, 2008, in Paris. (AP)
Italian fashion designer Valentino, right, standing underneath the logo of his fashion house, answers the questions of a fashion reporter prior to the presentation of his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2008 fashion collection, on Jan. 23, 2008, in Paris. (AP)

French luxury conglomerate Kering has reached a cash deal to purchase a 30% stake in Italian fashion house Valentino for 1.7 billion euros from a Qatari investment firm.

With the purchase, Kering is seeking to shore up its revenue stream as it struggles to turn around former powerhouse Gucci. Kering on Thursday reported first-half revenues of 10.1 billion euros, up 2%, as Gucci sales stagnate.

Under the deal announced Thursday, Kering has the option to buy 100% of Valentino no later than 2028. The partnership could lead to the Qatari investment firm, Mayhoola, becoming a shareholder in Kering, as well as other potential “joint opportunities,” the statement said.

Kering Chairman and CEO Francois-Henri Pinault expressed admiration for “the evolution of Valentino under Mayhoola ownership,” which Kering said turned Valentino “into one of the most admired luxury houses in the world.”

“I am very pleased of this first step in our collaboration with Mayhoola to develop Valentino and pursue the very strong strategic journey of brand elevation,” citing the role of Valentino CEO Jacopo Venturini, who “will continue to lead.”

Gucci, which accounts for nearly half of Kering revenues, is in the throes of a relaunch, with a new management team and a new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, who will unveil his first collection during Milan Fashion Week in September.

Valentino, founded by Valentino Garavani in 1960, recorded revenues of 1.4 billion euros in 2022. Pierpaolo Piccoli has been creative director at Valentino since 2008, working alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri from 2008-16.

With its corporate base in Milan and design studio in Rome, the fashion house is a mainstay of Paris fashion week with its womenswear and couture collections while recently returning menswear to Milan.

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Fashion

Hugo Boss May Push Back 2025 Targets as Luxury Sector Falters

The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP
The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP
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Hugo Boss May Push Back 2025 Targets as Luxury Sector Falters

The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP
The Hugo Boss logo is seen at one of the brand's stores in Hong Kong. CREDIT: BUDRUL CHUKRUT/AP

Hugo Boss may push back key sales and profit targets beyond 2025 when it reports its second-quarter results on Thursday, as investors watch for updates on trading and cost-cutting plans.
Shares in the company fell as much as 10% in July as it cut its full-year sales and earnings forecasts, citing weakening global consumer demand, especially in China and Britain, said Reuters.
It warned in March that its target of reaching 5 billion euros ($5.4 billion) in annual revenues in 2025 might be delayed, but said it still expected its margin on earnings before interest and taxes (EBIT) to reach at least 12% next year.
"Besides comments on current trading, which will be closely watched by investors, we would not rule out an update on Hugo Boss' mid-term targets," said Felix Jonathan Dennl, analyst at Metzler Capital Markets in Frankfurt.
Some analysts, including Dennl, expect Hugo Boss to hit its mid-term sales target two to three years later than originally forecast, and to reach its mid-term EBIT margin goal after 2028.
"If Hugo Boss can't provide more visibility, the revenue and EBIT targets should be in doubt," Alexander Zienkowicz, senior analyst at Mwb Research said.
In an average of estimates last updated ahead of the company's preliminary results in mid-July, analysts had forecast sales of 4.65 billion euros and an operating profit of 519 million for 2025, corresponding to an EBIT margin of 11%.
Cost cuts are also going to be in focus, said Joerg Philipp Frey, analyst at Warburg Research. He highlighted the company's 21% jump in marketing spend and higher brick-and-mortar retail expenses in the second quarter from a year earlier, in contrast with its quarterly sales decline.
The upmarket fashion brand has been on an expansion drive, increasing marketing spend and opening 102 new points of sale, including own stores, "shop-in-shops" and outlets, in 2023. It is trying to stem a slowdown in sales growth which has contributed to the company's shares almost halving in value this year.
"To lift the share price, it will be important for Hugo Boss to demonstrate effective management of the issues at hand and a credible path to recovery," Zienkowicz said.
The luxury sector is grappling with weaker sales and pressure on margins as inflation-hit shoppers hold off from splashing out on designer fashion. A property slump and job insecurity in China has exacerbated the problem.
Earnings from luxury companies this quarter have demonstrated the strains that the sector is under with both LVMH and rival Kering falling short of forecasts.