Paris Fashion Week to Showcase Industry Makeover With String of Debuts

Models walk the runway during the Michelle Nassar collection show at Panama Fashion Week in Panama City on September 26, 2025. (Photo by MARTIN BERNETTI / AFP)
Models walk the runway during the Michelle Nassar collection show at Panama Fashion Week in Panama City on September 26, 2025. (Photo by MARTIN BERNETTI / AFP)
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Paris Fashion Week to Showcase Industry Makeover With String of Debuts

Models walk the runway during the Michelle Nassar collection show at Panama Fashion Week in Panama City on September 26, 2025. (Photo by MARTIN BERNETTI / AFP)
Models walk the runway during the Michelle Nassar collection show at Panama Fashion Week in Panama City on September 26, 2025. (Photo by MARTIN BERNETTI / AFP)

Paris Fashion Week kicks off on Monday with a dozen new faces set to make their debuts at major labels, including Matthieu Blazy at Chanel.

Reflecting an unprecedented shake-up of creative directors, the Spring-Summer 2026 season will showcase the renewal of the top ranks of the global luxury clothing industry on a scale rarely seen.

The sector, facing a slowdown in spending from the world's elite, is banking on the changes to infuse fresh excitement and hopefully boost sales, AFP reported.

"We're opening a new chapter, not so much for Fashion Week itself, but for what fashion will be over the next 10 years," said Pierre Groppo, fashion editor-in-chief of Vanity Fair magazine in France.

Although the first Chanel show by Matthieu Blazy is expected to be the biggest highlight, the VIPs and fashionistas jostling for highly coveted invitations will have to wait until the penultimate day on October 6 to glimpse the 41-year-old.

The Franco-Belgian, poached from Kering-owned Bottega Veneta, faces the daunting task of modernizing Chanel's identity and turning the page on the Karl Lagerfeld era of more than three decades.

The "Kaiser" defined the hugely profitable brand up to his death in 2019 and was succeeded by his long-time co-worker Virginie Viard, who was seen as a successful continuity candidate.

Blazy, who first caught the eye as a designer at Maison Martin Margiela, took one of the most coveted spots in the fashion business in December after regenerating Bottega Veneta and its signature handwoven "intreccio" leather patterns.

Another hotly awaited moment will be Jonathan Anderson's first women's collection for LVMH-owned Dior, on October 1, after the Northern Irish designer presented a well-received debut men's line in June.

Attention will also turn to Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga, who is succeeding the provocative Demna, and to Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier, the brand's first permanent artistic director since its founder retired in 2020.

For Claire Thomson-Jonville, editorial director of Vogue France, "the massive arrival of new creative directors is the sign of a new era: they bring a more global, inclusive and responsible vision, while reinventing the heritage of the houses."

The week will also see the debut of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe, Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler and Mark Thomas at Carven.

"We can call this a historic Fashion Week," added Thomson-Jonville.

Some major designers will be showing only their second collections -- often considered by industry insiders as more meaningful than the debuts -- including Sarah Burton for Givenchy, Glenn Martens for Maison Margiela and Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford.

Alongside the newcomers will be collections from Louis Vuitton and Hermes, and the return of long-absent labels such as Celine and Thom Browne, promising a Fashion Week "without downtime," said Elvire von Bardeleben, fashion editor at Le Monde.

Among the new brands, Belgian designer Julie Kegels makes her Paris debut, as does her compatriot Meryll Rogge.

The Paris event comes at a turbulent time for the luxury industry, facing slowing demand in China, US tariffs on exports and uncertainty over the global economy.

Each year, four Fashion Weeks set the rhythm of the calendar: menswear in January and June, and womenswear in February/March and September, the latter being the most closely watched.

These are distinct from Haute Couture, shown only in Paris in January and July, featuring unique handmade pieces destined for red carpets and major events.



France Takes Aim at Ultra-Fast Fashion with New Levy

The logo of Temu, an e-commerce platform owned by PDD Holdings, is seen on a mobile phone displayed in front of its website, in this illustration picture taken April 26, 2023. (Reuters)
The logo of Temu, an e-commerce platform owned by PDD Holdings, is seen on a mobile phone displayed in front of its website, in this illustration picture taken April 26, 2023. (Reuters)
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France Takes Aim at Ultra-Fast Fashion with New Levy

The logo of Temu, an e-commerce platform owned by PDD Holdings, is seen on a mobile phone displayed in front of its website, in this illustration picture taken April 26, 2023. (Reuters)
The logo of Temu, an e-commerce platform owned by PDD Holdings, is seen on a mobile phone displayed in front of its website, in this illustration picture taken April 26, 2023. (Reuters)

France will from Tuesday impose a fee on ultra-fast fashion items that will eventually reach almost 20 euros per garment, as the government targets major Asian e-commerce platforms including Shein.

The levy follows legislation passed by the French parliament in June to regulate so-called "ultra-fast fashion" companies, known for selling large volumes of lower quality clothing at rock-bottom prices.

It is part of a push to rein in Asian e-commerce giants including Shein, Temu and AliExpress, which have exploded in popularity in France in recent years.

"The harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion on our environment and our economy are well known and documented," said Mathieu Lefevre, the minister for ecological transition on Friday as details of the measure were published.

Under the legislation, ultra-fast fashion will be determined according to two criteria: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price.

The per-item fee will vary on a set scale according to how each product scores on both these standards.

In 2026, companies will pay fines such as a 50-cent levy on underwear falling into the ultra-fast fashion category, rising to two euros for T-shirts, nine euros for jeans and 12 euros for a jacket.

The levy could reach up to 19.50 euros ($22.60) per item by 2030, though the cap remains at 50 percent of the product's pre-tax price.

A tool to collect data independently, rather than relying solely on companies' own declarations, is under development, Lefevre's office said.

Shein, which on Monday was valued at $26.3 billion in its long-awaited Hong Kong initial public offering, declined to comment when contacted by AFP.

Temu and AliExpress did not immediately respond to requests for comment.

The measure has faced criticism over which retailers it will affect.

In July, Lefevre's office said the levy would not apply to retailers such as H&M or Zara, prompting some to say that the measure appeared to spare European and French companies.

French officials have made repeated statements that they view Shein, Temu and AliExpress as driving the surge in ultra-fast fashion.

The European Commission had also raised questions over whether the legislation complied with EU law, but Lefevre's office said those concerns had been "dispelled" and the measure was not expected to be blocked.

China meanwhile warned in July of potential retaliation over the French law, slamming the regulation as "discriminatory" and in violation of trade principles.

Imports of small parcels from China into the EU have already fallen by around 30 to 40 percent since a separate three-euro EU levy on such shipments came into force on July 1, according to the French government.


Shein Prices Hong Kong IPO at Midpoint of Range, Raises $1.74 Billion

FILE PHOTO: A view of the reception of fast-fashion brand Shein's office in Sao Paulo, Brazil, December 15, 2025. REUTERS/Jorge Silva/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A view of the reception of fast-fashion brand Shein's office in Sao Paulo, Brazil, December 15, 2025. REUTERS/Jorge Silva/File Photo
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Shein Prices Hong Kong IPO at Midpoint of Range, Raises $1.74 Billion

FILE PHOTO: A view of the reception of fast-fashion brand Shein's office in Sao Paulo, Brazil, December 15, 2025. REUTERS/Jorge Silva/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: A view of the reception of fast-fashion brand Shein's office in Sao Paulo, Brazil, December 15, 2025. REUTERS/Jorge Silva/File Photo

Shein on Monday priced its initial public offering in Hong Kong at the midpoint of its marketed range, raising HK$13.60 billion ($1.74 billion) from the share sale.

The online fast-fashion retailer offered 280 million shares for the listing at HK$48.56 per share, below the maximum offer price of HK$49.50 apiece announced last week, Reuters reported.

The Hong Kong public offering portion was subscribed 5.63 times, while the international offering was subscribed 2.59 times, Shein said in a stock exchange filing.

The long-awaited market debut comes after the online retailer, known for selling $5 dresses and $10 jeans to shoppers in about 160 countries, scrapped plans to list in New York and London.

Shein in an exchange filing last week said that most of the funds from the offering would be utilised to improve its technology and increase brand awareness and global presence.

The Singapore-based, Chinese-founded company's shares are slated to debut on the Hong Kong stock exchange on Tuesday.


Gap Climbs After Leadership Change at Old Navy, Profit Forecast Raise

A person shops at a Gap store in Times Square in New York City, US, November 28, 2024. (Reuters)
A person shops at a Gap store in Times Square in New York City, US, November 28, 2024. (Reuters)
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Gap Climbs After Leadership Change at Old Navy, Profit Forecast Raise

A person shops at a Gap store in Times Square in New York City, US, November 28, 2024. (Reuters)
A person shops at a Gap store in Times Square in New York City, US, November 28, 2024. (Reuters)

Gap's shares jumped as much as 24.1% to a four-month high, after the apparel retailer named industry veteran Michael Francis as CEO of Old Navy, a move aimed at reinvigorating the brand in a challenging spending environment.

Old Navy, Gap's biggest brand, has struggled to gain traction in select women's apparel categories in recent quarters, a key hurdle in the company's turnaround.

Since CEO Richard Dickson took charge in 2023, Gap has revamped its leadership and ‌marketing, boosting Gap ‌and Banana Republic, but Old Navy continues ‌to ⁠lag.

"It is true ⁠that the family demographic that Old Navy serves is under pressure, but Old Navy did not give them enough reasons to buy," said Neil Saunders, managing director of GlobalData, adding that the weakness points to a broader problem that Gap can no longer pass off as a "modest range misstep".

Gap shares were trading 15% ⁠higher at $23.95, and could add about $1.14 billion to ‌the company's market value if gains ‌hold.

Some retailers are bringing new leaders on board to revive their ‌struggling brands. Tapestry's Kate Spade last month appointed renowned designer Jonathan ‌Saunders as executive creative director.

"The appointment of a new Old Navy leader underscores management's focus on stabilizing performance at the company's largest banner," Jefferies analysts said in a note.

Francis joined Gap in March as Old ‌Navy's chief customer officer. He brings over four decades of marketing, commercial and business transformation experience, ⁠including roles ⁠at Target and Walmart.

Gap lifted its annual profit forecast after topping quarterly estimates. However, it narrowed its fiscal 2026 sales growth target, citing economic uncertainty.

Its quarterly comparable sales grew about 10%, while at Old Navy they were down 4%, the first decline in 12 quarters.

The company's forward 12-month price-to-earnings ratio stood at 8.33, compared with American Eagle Outfitters' 8.94 and Urban Outfitters' 11.93.

"Gap should be able to end the full fiscal year on a positive sales note, but it needs to get the big engine of Old Navy whirring again to keep advancing at a convincing pace," Saunders said.