Turkmenistan's Battle against Desert Sand

For Bokurdak residents, cultivating every square meter is a constant battle with nature. Nikolay Vavilov / AFP
For Bokurdak residents, cultivating every square meter is a constant battle with nature. Nikolay Vavilov / AFP
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Turkmenistan's Battle against Desert Sand

For Bokurdak residents, cultivating every square meter is a constant battle with nature. Nikolay Vavilov / AFP
For Bokurdak residents, cultivating every square meter is a constant battle with nature. Nikolay Vavilov / AFP

Residents in the remote Turkmen village of Bokurdak have long depended on the Karakum Desert for their livelihoods, cultivating every square meter they can in a constant battle with nature.

It is a battle that some fear they are now losing.

Over recent years, large dunes have started encroaching on the land in the village, while rolling desert sands have forced residents to shift further downhill, local pensioner Kakabai Baimedov told AFP.

For those who live in the desert -- known as "gumli" in Turkmen -- this has been "very difficult", Baimedov said.

"The village of Bokurdak used to be on a hill north of this place. Then, due to the advancing desert, we had to move lower and lower," Baimedov told AFP.

While sand and the steppe have always been part of life in Central Asia, scientists warn climate change and other human activities are accelerating desertification and the degradation of the land.

In addition to being an ecological and social problem, desertification is also an economic burden, costing an estimated six percent of Central Asia's GDP annually, according to the World Bank.

The Karakum Desert covers more than 80 percent of Turkmenistan, a former Soviet republic bordering Iran and Afghanistan.

"If its vegetation and soil cover are not properly managed, the surface is easily subject to erosion, degrading farmland and forming sand dunes," Turkmen scientist Mukhammet Durikov told AFP.

Deforestation is another key culprit, while severe droughts and dry winds fueled by climate change are making the problem worse, he said.

Tree-planting campaign

Central Asia is especially vulnerable to climate change: average temperatures in the region have risen by about twice the global average since 1991, according to UN data.

Authorities in Turkmenistan -- a politically isolated country of seven million people -- have sought to curb desertification through a massive tree-planting campaign.

The government announced in the summer that 162 million trees had been planted over the past 20 years.

"The president himself actively participates in the fight against desertification," an official from the environmental ministry told AFP.

The ministry and regional officials are responsible for planting sites for the trees, overseeing their planting and care, the official said.

AFP was not able to immediately verify the government's claims.

The country bordering the Caspian Sea restricts independent reporting and keeps information about government activities largely secret.

Turkmenistan's two leaders, father-and-son duo Gurbanguly and Serdar Berdymukhamedov, have been keen to show they are taking action in combating desertification.

State media shows Serdar regularly appearing with a shovel in hand planting trees.

"Previously, it was spruces or cedars, but today, we find endemic species better adapted to the climate," Merdan Arazmedov, a member of Turkmenistan's Nature Protection Society, told AFP.

Keeping water in the soil

In Bokurdak, scientists have mainly planted saxauls -- a hardy desert shrub whose roots penetrate as much as 15 meters (49 feet) underground to capture water, Arazmedov said.

The saxaul -- which is also being used in Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan -- helps retain sand, improves soil moisture, and also serves as a natural barrier for homes.

Baimedov, who has become an amateur botanist, tends to about 15,000 saplings, which are aimed at forming a green wall against the sand.

"It takes 15-20 years to grow a tree like this," he said, pointing to an eight-meter- (26-foot-) high saxaul.

The saxaul is also being used to protect the capital Ashgabat, where "environmental activists have planted more than 50 hectares of saxaul on the edge of the desert," Arazmedov said.

"Now, the road to the capital is no longer covered in sand, traffic flows smoothly, and the number of accidents has decreased," he added.

But for Baimedov, whose main weapon against the desert is planting trees, the battle has become all the harder due to climate change.

"In the past, it was enough to water young saxaul daily with up to 10 liters of water," he said.

"Today, due to climate change and rising temperatures, it takes up to 20 liters each day to ensure rooting."

Turkmenistan has employed other methods to beat the sand.

Last year, scientists in the country announced they had launched successful trials spraying the soil with cyanobacteria, also known as "blue-green algae" -- a method that helps retain moisture and facilitate tree rooting.

In September, Turkmenistan's president proposed creating a regional center against desertification in Central Asia.



Macron Croons Classic Ballads at a State Dinner in Armenia for the French Leader

 France's President Emmanuel Macron and Armenia's Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan attend the talks in Yerevan on May 5, 2026. (AFP)
France's President Emmanuel Macron and Armenia's Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan attend the talks in Yerevan on May 5, 2026. (AFP)
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Macron Croons Classic Ballads at a State Dinner in Armenia for the French Leader

 France's President Emmanuel Macron and Armenia's Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan attend the talks in Yerevan on May 5, 2026. (AFP)
France's President Emmanuel Macron and Armenia's Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan attend the talks in Yerevan on May 5, 2026. (AFP)

French President Emmanuel Macron stole some of the spotlight from other world leaders in Armenia's capital this week when he crooned classic ballads, including “La Bohème,” at a glitzy state dinner.

Macron was joined by Armenian Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan on drums and celebrated jazz musician Vahagn Hayrapetyan on piano on Monday night in Yerevan. In addition to “La Bohème,” which was recorded by Armenian-French musician Charles Aznavour in 1965, Macron also sang “Les Feuilles Mortes" by Yves Montand.

The event at Armenia’s presidential residence on Monday night was held in Macron's honor. The French leader was in town for a state visit that coincided with a gathering of the European Political Community and a historic European Union summit.

Pashinyan, who took office in 2018, more regularly flexes his musical prowess as part of his musical group Varchaband. It held its debut concert in Yerevan at the end of January.

The Armenian leader is also well known for posting videos of himself listening to music on Instagram, with his musical taste seemingly spanning from Taylor Swift to Travis Scott and A$AP Rocky.


Sherlock Holmes Fans Recreate Fateful Duel at Swiss Falls

British motoring author Philip Porter, dressed as Sherlock Holmes poses during a visit by members of the Sherlock Holmes Society of London to the Reichenbach Falls near Meiringen on May 3, 2026. (AFP)
British motoring author Philip Porter, dressed as Sherlock Holmes poses during a visit by members of the Sherlock Holmes Society of London to the Reichenbach Falls near Meiringen on May 3, 2026. (AFP)
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Sherlock Holmes Fans Recreate Fateful Duel at Swiss Falls

British motoring author Philip Porter, dressed as Sherlock Holmes poses during a visit by members of the Sherlock Holmes Society of London to the Reichenbach Falls near Meiringen on May 3, 2026. (AFP)
British motoring author Philip Porter, dressed as Sherlock Holmes poses during a visit by members of the Sherlock Holmes Society of London to the Reichenbach Falls near Meiringen on May 3, 2026. (AFP)

Immaculately dressed in Victorian costume, Sherlock Holmes devotees gathered at the Reichenbach Falls in Switzerland to recreate the intrepid detective's fateful duel with his nemesis Professor Moriarty, 135 years on.

Captivated by British writer Arthur Conan Doyle's evocative world of villains, sleuths, fog, gas lamps and tweed, around 60 members of the Sherlock Holmes Society of London made the pilgrimage to the hallowed destination.

The spectacular scene is where Holmes and Moriarty clashed on a precarious high ledge, apparently falling to their deaths on May 4, 1891.

The group's three-day journey through Holmes-related sites in Switzerland wound up at Meiringen in the Bernese Oberland, for a funicular ride on Sunday up to the thundering Reichenbach Falls, which tumble 120 meters (400 feet) into a pool below.

Hats of all varieties, twirled moustaches, lavish dresses and walking canes abounded, as each came dressed as an individual character from the stories, including the missing rugby player, the king of Bohemia, and Mrs. Hudson, Holmes's landlady at 221B Baker Street, London.

"It does transform you, just wearing the clothes, and hunching a bit," said British lawyer Peter Horrocks, top-hatted and clad in black as the sinister crime lord Moriarty.

"This is so atmospheric," he said amid the roar and spray, insisting it "absolutely" brings Sherlockians closer to the story.

Doyle killed off his beloved detective at this spot in his 1893 short story "The Adventure of the Final Problem".

But such was the public outcry, Doyle was forced to resurrect him -- and the affection for Holmes endures to this day.

- 'Tears in my eyes' -

With a magnifying glass in one hand and a pipe in the other, motoring author Philip Porter played Holmes.

He hailed the "unique appeal" of Doyle's stories, "full of Victorian atmosphere, the triumph of good over evil, and some wonderful characters" to draw in devotees.

"We have very little in common in real life, but we are brought together by the Sherlock Holmes canon," he told AFP.

Recreating the duel, Holmes and Moriarty grappled, finally holding the stance depicted in Sidney Paget's 1893 illustration as the pair seemingly tumbled.

Doctor Watson then walked by, his shouts of "Holmes!" echoing off the rocks, before discovering the letter the detective left for him to find -- and realizing his dear friend had plummeted to his doom.

"When Watson found the note, frankly I had tears in my eyes. I found that really moving," said Helene Vrot, from near Paris, who dressed in the 1895 "very short-lived fashion for huge sleeves".

"It's an opportunity to make memories with people who have the same kind of mind," she told AFP of the trip.

For JeanMarie Zubia, from the US state of Washington, "it's a total immersion" into the Victorian era.

Her character was Laura Lyons from "The Hound of the Baskervilles", and she reveled in the collective for the detective.

"It's amazing to be surrounded by all the other Sherlockians here, because they get to talk non-stop about what I'm so passionate about... the minutiae that goes into every single story," she said.

- 'My dream place' -

One sweat-soaked trail runner did a double-take as he dashed straight into the costumed throng, while Chinese first-time visitor Kitty -- making her own solo anniversary pilgrimage -- could not believe her eyes.

Wearing a Holmes-style deerstalker hat, the 24-year-old Sherlock fanatic suddenly walked right into beloved characters come to life.

"Wow! It's very lucky of me to meet Mr. Sherlock Holmes and Doctor Watson and Professor Moriarty and Colonel Moran!" the enthralled Manchester University robotics student said.

"This is my dream place. It's beautiful -- just like Watson wrote in his diary."

The organized visit was celebrating the more than 1,000-strong London society's 75th anniversary.

The trip's coordinator Markus Geisser told AFP nearly half the visitors were on their first Holmes trip, showing "travelling to Switzerland in a Victorian costume is still something that people actually like to do".

Dressed as the devil-may-care German spy Von Bork, he said the multinational society and its events were a chance to meet like-minded people, adding: "in my case, I met my wife."


A Taiwanese Town Embraces a Slow Pace of Life Through a Snail Race

 An owner decorates the snail racers with flowers during a snail race in Fenglin town, Hualien County, eastern of Taiwan, Saturday, May 2, 2026. (AP)
An owner decorates the snail racers with flowers during a snail race in Fenglin town, Hualien County, eastern of Taiwan, Saturday, May 2, 2026. (AP)
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A Taiwanese Town Embraces a Slow Pace of Life Through a Snail Race

 An owner decorates the snail racers with flowers during a snail race in Fenglin town, Hualien County, eastern of Taiwan, Saturday, May 2, 2026. (AP)
An owner decorates the snail racers with flowers during a snail race in Fenglin town, Hualien County, eastern of Taiwan, Saturday, May 2, 2026. (AP)

The Taiwanese town of Fenglin has grown a reputation as a place where life moves slowly and people can catch their breath.

Rather than push against this rhythm, the town of around 10,000 has chosen to embrace it and make it part of its identity. Enter the snails.

Fenglin has been putting on snail races as a way to celebrate its focus on a slower, sustainable lifestyle that values healthcare, longevity and community connections while bringing in more tourists in the wake of a strong earthquake in 2024 that dampened travel in surrounding areas.

“The earthquake two years ago had a relatively big impact on tourism because people are worried an earthquake may happen again,” said Hsu Lu, a 32-year-old resident. “Many people have left Hualien because of earthquakes,” Hsu said, referring to the surrounding county and the site of frequent quakes.

Snails are one way to bring tourists back, even if slowly.

Fenglin has associated itself with snails since 2014, when it joined the Cittaslow international network of small cities focused on quality of life and locally sourced foods. Cittaslow's symbol is a snail carrying an assortment of buildings on its back.

The designation of a slow city seemed to fit Fenglin, whose population has shrunk threefold over the past few decades. Today, it is also an example of Taiwan's “super-aged” society, with more than 20% of its residents older than 65.

To help reinvigorate local tourism after the April 2024 earthquake, which killed 19 people and injured more than 1,100, Fenglin residents decided to host a snail race the following month, said organizer Cheng Jen-shou.

“We thought that our event could attract people, and that would be a small help,” he said.

This year, the town held the third edition of the race over the May Day holiday.

Several dozen enthusiastic residents and tourists attended the event, which featured six snail races spaced out over two days. The winners from each race competed in the final, but not before posing in front of their audiences while slowly being pulled on a piece of plywood across a green carpet as their fans cheered them on.

Snail race attracts dozens from near and far

Li Cheng-wen, a 70-year-old retiree from Fenglin, brought several snails to the race. He caught them in his vegetable garden snacking on his leafy greens, and instead of killing them as some farmers do, he decided to raise them as pets, he said. He feeds them slices of bananas, papaya and vegetable leaves and showers them daily.

“As to the criteria for choosing snails for the race, I usually select those that are very active and pleasing to the eye,” Li said.

Kelvin Hong and Tiara Lin also brought a sightly snail to the race. The couple traveled all the way from the southern city of Kaohsiung, about a five-hour drive away, together with their 2-year-old daughter, Murphy, and their giant African snail, Aquaman.

The couple had signed up Aquaman for a previous race in 2024, but just as they were headed for Fenglin, Lin went into labor. Now the whole family returned to cheer on Aquaman.

Despite being larger than most of its homegrown competitors — which had been picked out from local gardens or the side of the road — Aquaman was rather slow.

Once the race started, it and nine other snails were placed near the center of a round table covered with a thin vinyl sheet. The first to reach the edge of the table was crowned the winner.

The absolute champion was Guage, or Brother Snail. Its owner, 39-year-old Tanya Lin from Hualien, had been raising the snail since 2024, when it also won one race.

This year, Brother Snail crossed the 33-centimeter (13-inch) tablecloth in 3 minutes and 3 seconds. That performance earned it the top spot on a tiny stadium and a prize of organic sweet potato leaves.

Besides the snail race, the local government has been trying to attract tourism by offering guided e-bike tours with stops at historic tobacco barns, Japanese colonial-era buildings and a Hakka-minority museum.

The idea of a slower pace of life was compelling enough to attract university students Annette Lin and Tanya Liu, who rode the train for about 30 minutes from Hualien on Saturday to check out the snail race and Fenglin’s slow vibes.

The friends found the competition unique and enjoyed Fenglin’s leisurely pace — but only as a respite from the busy city life.

“I think for travel or a trip, it’s a great choice,” Liu said. “But maybe living here would not really be my dream choice.”