Lebanon’s Drug Empire Faces Beginning of Its End

A Saudi Anti-Narcotics official displays bags of Captagon pills seized in Jeddah hidden inside a shipment of pomegranates, April 25 (AFP)
A Saudi Anti-Narcotics official displays bags of Captagon pills seized in Jeddah hidden inside a shipment of pomegranates, April 25 (AFP)
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Lebanon’s Drug Empire Faces Beginning of Its End

A Saudi Anti-Narcotics official displays bags of Captagon pills seized in Jeddah hidden inside a shipment of pomegranates, April 25 (AFP)
A Saudi Anti-Narcotics official displays bags of Captagon pills seized in Jeddah hidden inside a shipment of pomegranates, April 25 (AFP)

A sense of optimism is growing within Lebanon’s security establishment that 2026 could mark the end of the country’s “drug world,” a shadow economy born out of the Lebanese civil war and fueled by the conflicts that followed.

Those wars created an ideal environment for the trade to flourish, turning Lebanon and Syria into hubs for narcotics trafficking that spread across borders through Jordan and into the Gulf, particularly Saudi Arabia.

The Kingdom is a main target of traffickers who moved their illicit goods along smuggling routes known as “tracks,” amassing fortunes that went on to finance states and militias.

This optimism stems from major developments along the Lebanese-Syrian border following the fall of the previous Syrian regime and the withdrawal of the army’s elite Fourth Division, which had long maintained control there.

The departure of that force led to the expulsion of drug traffickers who had operated from what security officials called the “gray zone” inside Syrian territory.

A senior Lebanese security official told Asharq Al-Awsat that the war in Syria had been “the spark that ignited the drug trade,” while the war’s end has signaled “the beginning of its demise,” after coordinated operations struck the trade at every level, from production and storage to distribution.

The border areas on the Syrian side had served as a safe haven for drug traffickers between 2023 and 2024. Many had settled in villages, buying houses under the protection of Syrian security forces, particularly the Fourth Division, which acted as their commercial partner. With the regime’s collapse, the traffickers fled back to Lebanon, where they became easy prey for the Lebanese army. Military intelligence units pursued them relentlessly — arresting some, killing others.

Development as a Weapon

According to Lebanese security assessments, a lasting end to the drug trade will require not only security pressure but also “a dose of development” in Lebanon’s deprived regions, mainly the Bekaa Valley and Akkar.

Officials say development projects must complement the army’s and security forces’ relentless crackdowns by addressing the deep poverty that traffickers have long exploited to justify their activities and recruit locals.

For decades, the smuggling routes that run through these neglected areas have shaped livelihoods. Some traffickers built reputations as “Robin Hoods,” showering locals with gifts and grants in exchange for silence and loyalty. But their generosity comes at a price.

A Lebanese security source told Asharq Al-Awsat that one well-known drug lord, for example, had paid the tuition fees of several university students — only to later turn them into campus distributors.

The Boom Years and the Rise of ‘Robin Hood’

Before the Syrian crisis, Lebanon’s drug trade was estimated at around 1.3 million pills. That figure surged to three million during the war, before dropping to about 400,000.

“They were outlaws who rose to power — and we turned them back into outlaws,” a Lebanese security official said.

The “golden age” of drug traffickers in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley returned after the country’s financial collapse in late 2019, which coincided with a crippling political paralysis following the end of former President Michel Aoun’s term and delays in electing his successor.

Traffickers seized on the despair of impoverished locals in regions long neglected by the state, especially in areas where chronic deprivation had persisted well before the currency crash. Residents say political leaders’ neglect had become a way of life.

Many young men fell into the grip of the trade, especially after the rise of the “new star” of the drug world — Captagon — which flooded Lebanon as both a manufactured and exported product after 2011, directly linked to the Syrian conflict.

Syrian traffickers and influential figures in government and security circles on both sides of the porous Lebanese-Syrian border played key roles.

The major dealers soon gained social, and at times political, influence. Some ran for or considered running in elections. Others portrayed themselves as benevolent outlaws, “Robin Hoods” who took from the rich and gave to the poor.

They funded irrigation and electricity projects, offered social assistance, mediated legal troubles for locals, and used their connections with politicians to secure jobs.

In effect, their mini-state kept expanding and benefiting from overlaps with powerful groups operating on both sides of the border.

The equation was simple: export drugs to the “enemy camp” to earn foreign currency, while the lucrative commissions from this trade helped finance a state — or a quasi-state.

As one trafficker boasted, “I only need one shipment out of ten to make it through — and I’m set.”

The Captagon Story

Captagon is often described as a “revolution” in the drug world. Unlike cannabis or opium, it needs no farmland. It is not bound by seasons, and its production, packaging, and smuggling are easy to conceal, often escaping traditional detection methods used by scanners and police dogs.

But while distribution and smuggling can be kept secret, production is harder to hide. Manufacturing Captagon requires specialized laboratories that emit strong, unpleasant odors during the process, making concealment difficult.

To overcome that, producers often lured powerful figures with money and convinced property owners in remote areas to rent out their buildings.

Traffickers also benefited from operating in what they called “the gray zone,” a loophole in countries that had not yet classified Captagon as an illegal narcotic, including Lebanon itself.

When security forces arrested traffickers, they often charged them with possessing other contraband items, such as weapons or different drugs, rather than Captagon itself.

The ‘Kings of the Tracks’ and the Secret Formulas

Captagon first spread in Iraq and Syria, where long-distance truck drivers used it to stay awake and alert during grueling journeys. By the early 2000s, it had gained recognition as a recreational drug. Between 2007 and 2011, a new class of traffickers emerged — the so-called “kings of the tracks” — who controlled the routes carrying Captagon from factories to consumers, particularly across the Gulf.

Production initially centered in border areas on the Syrian side. But as the Syrian conflict escalated, many traffickers relocated to Lebanon, setting up factories in partnership with local counterparts.

Interestingly, the Syrian traffickers guarded their manufacturing secrets closely, never sharing the exact formula with their Lebanese partners. Lebanese military intelligence — which spearheaded operations in the Bekaa Valley and border regions — later obtained confessions from captured dealers confirming this. Some Lebanese producers eventually discovered the formula, or came close enough to replicate it, leading to a surge in “knockoff” pills of lower quality.

The profits were enormous. A single pill costing less than 20 cents to make could sell for $20 — and up to $50 at retail prices. The huge margins drew new players into the trade.

When the war broke out in Syria, extremist groups took over border zones and destroyed the factories. Many traffickers fled to government-held areas or to Lebanon. But between 2012 and 2014, those same groups realized the profit potential and turned to Captagon as a major source of funding.

The years 2012 to 2023 marked the height of Captagon’s boom. Production and trafficking flourished, dominated by four or five top smugglers who monopolized the Gulf trade. Rivalries grew, with some traffickers roasting the pills to resemble desert sand, while others added logos and colors to give their products distinctive “brands.”

The Syrian Regime’s Entry — and Wagner’s Role

By mid-2012, influential figures within the Syrian regime had entered the Captagon trade. They did not take part directly in production or distribution but facilitated the movement of shipments across Syrian territory by issuing “permits” that allowed trucks to pass in exchange for fixed fees per crate.

At the time, Captagon traffickers traveled freely around the world, yet Beirut remained their favorite destination. Many opened restaurants and cafés in the Lebanese capital that served as perfect fronts for laundering drug money.

The production and distribution process followed several stages, starting with the purchase of raw materials.

Most materials were legally available on the market because they had legitimate uses in medicine, cleaning agents, pesticides, and fertilizers.

Traffickers bought them through supermarket owners or importers, paying premium prices to ensure cooperation. Even the machinery required for production was easy to acquire, as it was commonly used by pharmaceutical and chemical companies.

Most factories were based in Syrian border regions, but during the war, some were moved into Lebanon’s rugged mountains.

Remote houses, abandoned workshops, and livestock farms were rented at high prices and converted into makeshift labs. Some Syrian villages, such as Jarmash, became known as safe havens for dealers fleeing Lebanese security forces.

During the Syrian war, the trade thrived as never before. The Lebanese-Syrian and Syrian-Jordanian borders slipped out of government control, and despite the fighting, traffickers maintained good relations with all sides.

Everyone profited — from local militias to the Syrian regime, Russia, Iran, and Hezbollah — all of whom were waging difficult battles and relied on the same smuggling routes used for narcotics to move weapons, equipment, and sometimes fighters into besieged areas.

Russia’s Wagner Group even established an air bridge to transport Captagon to Libya, charging around $5,000 per crate.

Between 2014 and 2020, many traffickers relocated to Lebanon, exploiting the turmoil in border areas seized by extremist factions and Lebanon’s own deep political divisions. With economic hardship spreading, more people turned to the trade, resulting in a flood of lower-quality products.

During that period, the Lebanese army’s grip on the border weakened, especially after it suffered losses and kidnappings at the hands of militant groups. Smugglers took advantage, carving out their own routes and, in some cases, buying influence in politics by financing or backing candidates in elections.

The Declaration of the War on Drugs

As Lebanon’s security situation began to stabilize and drug traffickers grew bolder, the Lebanese authorities declared war on narcotics.

In the Bekaa Valley and along the Syrian border, the Lebanese army took the lead, while the Internal Security Forces assumed responsibility for operations inside the country and at ports.

Army intelligence spearheaded the campaign in the Bekaa, raiding Captagon factories and dismantling production lines. But once-peaceful traffickers turned violent. Few raids ended without clashes between the army and drug gangs. The fugitives then retreated deep into the rugged mountain areas, where troops pursued them relentlessly.

A senior security official told Asharq Al-Awsat that traffickers had offered large bribes to officers and anti-narcotics officials to halt operations, especially after the first year of confrontations inflicted losses estimated at around $200 million.

To evade army raids, traffickers shifted to using mobile labs mounted on trucks that could be moved quickly between sites. Yet the design had a fatal flaw: once production began, the trucks became slow and vulnerable to detection.

The War on Kingpins and the Battle of Abu Sallah

Lebanon’s war on drugs soon evolved into a war on the kingpins themselves. The army began targeting major gang leaders, even carrying out drone and airstrikes against some of them.

One of the most dramatic operations was the raid targeting the country’s most notorious drug lord in the Bekaa Valley, known as Abu Sallah, whose real name is Ali Mounzer Zeaiter. The raid sent a clear message to the underworld, forcing many traffickers to disappear under mounting security pressure.

Zeaiter earned the nickname Abu Sallah early in his career, when he would lower a basket tied to a rope from his apartment balcony to collect cash and deliver drugs to customers — a primitive system that became his signature. Operating from Beirut’s eastern suburbs, he later built a vast network and amassed enough power to command what security sources described as a small private army of gunmen and dealers.

When army intelligence planned to capture him, they discovered he had set up 346 surveillance points to protect himself, a mix of cameras mounted on poles and disguised “express cafés” along every road leading to his residence, designed to alert him to any approaching force.

After eight months of planning, the army launched the operation during a dinner Abu Sallah was hosting for his associates. Intelligence officers managed to take control of some surveillance cameras and redirect them away from the target area. The head of army intelligence in the Bekaa even helped create a diversion by taking his wife to a restaurant in Beirut known to be monitored by Abu Sallah’s informants.

The operation was conducted under strict secrecy and only seven people knew of the plan. The target was code-named “Marlboro” to prevent any leaks.

Abu Sallah escaped the ambush by using his wife as a human shield, killing a soldier, and fleeing toward Syria. He later returned after the regime’s collapse, only to be tracked down by the army, which killed him in an airstrike on his vehicle.

According to Lebanese security assessments, Abu Sallah had been the country’s number one trafficker. He had extensive influence in universities and schools — his prime retail markets — where he paid tuition fees for students or enrolled his own associates to promote drugs among their peers.



Houthi Summer Centers: A 'Mandatory' School Passage to the Front Lines

“School trip” for children at a Houthi-run summer camp in Amran (Asharq Al-Awsat)
“School trip” for children at a Houthi-run summer camp in Amran (Asharq Al-Awsat)
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Houthi Summer Centers: A 'Mandatory' School Passage to the Front Lines

“School trip” for children at a Houthi-run summer camp in Amran (Asharq Al-Awsat)
“School trip” for children at a Houthi-run summer camp in Amran (Asharq Al-Awsat)

In a corner of the courtyard of a public school in Sanaa, a woman dressed in black stands, once used to seeing her son in the morning assembly line. Today, she returns to the same place not as a mother, but as a cleaner trying to keep what remains of her life intact. She wipes the ground in heavy silence, as if whispering to the courtyard gravel: I had a son here. He left a child and came back a corpse.

She sees her son’s face in the student lines, hearing chants and slogans that were once unfamiliar. Quietly, she realizes many of them may follow the same path, but she says nothing. Two years ago, Umm Amer lost her only son. He was 17. He was returned to her a lifeless body, his image raised atop a coffin. They told her: “Ululate, he has attained martyrdom.”

She recalls how he began to change gradually after joining that summer camp. He became quieter, sometimes sharper, shouting and repeating phrases she had never known, about “jihad” and “victory,” as if they were his only path. She did not understand what was happening, but she saw in his eyes a look that was carrying him away from her.

Today, she does nothing but wipe her tears in secret and continue cleaning, in a job she obtained as the “mother of a martyr,” to support her three daughters after losing the family’s provider.

From Summer Activity to Mobilization Apparatus

The Houthi summer centers did not emerge with the group’s takeover of Sanaa in 2014. They are an extension of a historical trajectory tied to the group’s origins. Their beginnings date back to the early 1990s, specifically 1991, when activities were organized under what was known as the “Believing Youth” in Saada. These included youth programs and seasonal courses aimed at transmitting ideological messaging through study circles and summer camps, serving as early tools to build a social and organizational base by combining education with ideological formation.

With the outbreak of the Saada wars in 2004, these activities underwent a qualitative shift. They were no longer limited to religious or educational aspects but became tools of mobilization and recruitment, benefiting from public sympathy during the conflict and expanding their reach among youth.

By 2008, the group began spreading these activities beyond Saada using nontraditional means, including distributing digital materials on SD cards and USB drives. These contained Houthi doctrinal lectures and lessons tied to the summer centers, as well as what is known as the “Malazim” - Houthi doctrinal lectures delivered by the group’s founder, Hussein Badr al-Din al-Houthi, transcribed into booklets.

A supervisor in Sanaa said he received such memory devices in 2008, distributed among selected students. Upon reviewing their contents, he found recordings and Houthi doctrinal lectures by Hussein Badr al-Din al-Houthi, noting that these materials marked a turning point in his adoption of the group’s ideas and support for it.

He attended closed gatherings to listen to these Houthi doctrinal lectures in private meeting spaces with individuals close to the group in Sanaa and nearby areas such as Bani Hushaysh, Khawlan, and Sanhan.

Following the developments of 2011, particularly the February protests and sit-ins and the broader moment of political opening, these activities expanded to a number of provinces. More organized centers and courses appeared outside the group’s main stronghold, with clearer administrative oversight under the appealing slogan “regime change.” They moved beyond narrow circles to fill libraries and kiosks with the Malazim, establishing stalls in multiple locations to distribute booklets, posters, and slogans free of charge, and installing loudspeakers to continuously broadcast chants.

The most significant transformation came after the takeover of Sanaa in 2014, when summer centers shifted from limited activities into a wide-ranging program formally administered through state institutions, within an organizational structure that includes central, technical, and supervisory committees, with the involvement of multiple ministries.

A security source said the group had, in earlier stages, relied on what it called “cultural courses” and religious seminaries to attract youth, gain their sympathy, and integrate them into its project before the current model of summer centers emerged. The source added that these centers “are no longer limited, but have become an institutional program managed within an integrated organizational structure,” noting that they are used as a tool to influence youth orientations, ultimately pushing some toward the front lines.

Students in a classroom perform a military salute and chant the Houthi slogan (al-sarkha) (Asharq Al-Awsat)

Types of Summer Camps

According to available information, the group divides these centers or camps into three types: closed, model, and open. Closed camps function as ideological military courses. They are held in military barracks and focus primarily on preparing participants to become fighters within the group. They are trained both militarily and ideologically for this purpose and are considered reserve forces. Once enrolled, their phones are confiscated, contact with their families is cut off, and they are transported at night between training camps that change periodically.

All participants are high school students who have completed weapons dismantling training in schools. Their trainers nominate them for military courses as a reward for excellence and distinction, in addition to some members of school scout groups whose activities have been shifted from scouting to military.

In these camps, participants are trained to use light and medium weapons, RPGs, mortars, grenades, and camouflage and concealment techniques.

Model camps, typically for those over the age of 10, are considered “specialized camps.” Top-performing students in various school activities are recruited to them. These are closed camps where students remain throughout the week, but they are allowed to communicate with their families and their phones are not confiscated. They may return home weekly or every two weeks.

These camps are usually held in provincial capitals, where students receive intensive ideological lectures from senior group leaders, watch films on “jihad,” and study the biographies of the group’s leaders, Hezbollah, and Iran’s Revolutionary Guard. They also receive limited training in dismantling and using certain types of weapons.

Open camps are for children aged 5 to 10. They begin in the morning and end at noon, appearing to the public as Quran memorization centers and summer activities. As a result, the group spreads them across schools and mosques to make them widely accessible. However, children in these camps are taught the “pledge of allegiance,” to chant the Houthi slogan (al-sarkha), and to obey the group’s leader.

Girls are not excluded. There are dedicated centers for females, managed by the General Women’s Cultural Authority, which designs and implements programs, recruits students through field networks, supervises female staff, and prepares unified guidance materials.

These centers are presented as educational and recreational spaces, but they also include intensive religious programs, mobilization-oriented lectures, and group activities that reinforce discipline and belonging.

Embedding a “Conspiracy Theory” Narrative

In its messaging, the group promotes the idea that the summer centers are a fortress against “conspiracies” targeting religion and the nation. They are presented as a means of instilling what it calls “Quranic culture” in younger generations and building a generation armed with knowledge and awareness.

The group also emphasizes that the “battle with the enemy” is not limited to the military dimension but extends to “targeting awareness.” These centers are framed as a safeguard against what is described as “soft war” and “cultural invasion,” and as part of a long intellectual struggle aimed at preparing a generation capable of confrontation.

Alongside this messaging, educational sources indicate that organizers rely on a set of material and moral incentives, such as providing meals, basic supplies, organizing trips, and offering activities, to attract as many students as possible each year.

According to one of the Malazim, a Houthi doctrinal lecture by founder Hussein Badr al-Din al-Houthi titled “Lessons in Knowing God,” delivered at the Believing Youth forum in Saada, the overarching objective is to “develop students’ knowledge of God and entrench doctrine within their souls and consciences, in a way that propels them toward fighting and confronting enemies.”

Lessons Outside the Official Curriculum

In this year’s season, which began on March 28, the group distributed its own curricula for the summer centers, printed in high quality with a distinct visual identity. This reflects the scale of resources allocated to these programs compared to formal education, which continues to suffer from declining support and capacity.

Students are often forced to purchase their official textbooks from the black market, while teachers struggle to obtain their salaries. Each year, as preparations for the summer centers begin, the group’s leader, Abdul-Malik al-Houthi, delivers an annual speech calling for enrollment, a call that has itself evolved significantly over time.

These materials carry no reference to the Republic of Yemen or the Ministry of Education. Instead, they are issued under the title “The Quranic March – General Administration of Summer Courses.”

This extends to the naming of the centers, which are not attributed to the schools hosting them but are instead given symbolic names such as “Al-Hadi,” “Al-Hussein,” “Fatima,” “Martyr Taha al-Madani,” and “Martyr Saleh al-Sammad.”

Morning assembly for children in uniform at Houthi summer camps (Asharq Al-Awsat)

Administrative Structure with a Ministerial Character

The administrative structure of the summer courses and activities in areas under Houthi control reflects a multi-level system, led by the Ministries of Education and Youth and Sports, alongside the General Mobilization Authority, which plays a central role in mobilization and guidance, and the Ministry of Endowments, responsible for religious content.

At the executive and technical levels, local authorities in Houthi-controlled provinces oversee field implementation and coordinate activities within districts and centers through education offices and supervisory committees. Daily activities are managed, staff are assigned, and program implementation is monitored, reflecting a system that extends from central leadership down to neighborhoods.

Other ministries participate as technical partners in sectoral programs: the Ministry of Interior runs “Aware Youth... Safe Society,” Agriculture oversees the “Green Army,” Health manages “Health Ambassadors,” the communications sector supervises “Awareness in the Age of Communications,” and Technical Education and Vocational Training oversees “My Profession is My Future.”

The Ministry of Information plays an ongoing supporting role through annual coordination ahead of the launch of the courses, setting the framework for media coverage, including promotion and field reporting, as part of a plan to strengthen the centers’ presence in society.

These centers are managed by the “Supreme Committee for Summer Courses and Activities,” chaired by the prime minister in the Houthi administration, with membership including the ministers of education and youth and sports, a representative of the Endowments Authority, and representatives from the group’s mobilization and cultural apparatus.

Subcommittees are headed by provincial governors, with mobilization officials as deputies, and include directors of education, youth and sports, and endowments offices.

A Turning Point in 2026

While expansion of the summer centers had occurred gradually in previous years, 2026 marks a decisive turning point. Summer schooling is no longer optional; the group has moved to a new phase in which attendance is effectively compulsory. According to testimonies from students, parents, and teachers, a network of direct and indirect pressures is being applied, at times reaching the level of threats, placing families before a stark equation: comply or risk their children’s future.

Although this shift has not been officially announced, it has become a daily reality. Multiple sources confirm that, with preparations for this year’s summer centers underway, the group has escalated practices linking school procedures to participation in these programs.

For example, student results and admission for the next academic year are tied to participation, alongside pressure on school administrations to push students into the camps under threat of penalties. If a student wants their academic record to remain free of marks that could affect their future, including university admission, they must register in these centers.

In some schools, the release of results or acceptance into the following year is tied to a certificate of attendance from the summer center. Messages circulated on communication groups include implicit warnings that absence may negatively affect academic progression.

One message sent by a school administrator to mothers in a WhatsApp group contains a veiled threat that any student who does not attend the summer centers will be denied enrollment next year: “Dear mothers, please be informed that registration will not be accepted without a certificate from the summer center. We ask that students who have not yet registered do so and join the center to benefit.”

In another group, a teacher urged students: “Come early tomorrow, those registered and those not yet registered should register. The administration will not accept them at the start of the school year without the summer center certificate.”

A message attributed to a school principal in northern Ibb indicated that attendance at the summer centers is a condition for receiving exam results, while failing students are enticed with additional marks if they join the courses.

Extracurricular activities titled “My Profession is My Future” at a Houthi-run summer camp (Asharq Al-Awsat)

Declining Participation and Criminalization

According to sources, these measures were introduced out of concern that the summer centers might face declining turnout, as families are increasingly aware of their outcomes. Teacher A. Abdul Karim, who works in these centers, said that despite the group’s efforts to mobilize as many students as possible, participation has recently declined.

He noted that turnout has become very weak, and that recruiting students now requires significant time, sustained persuasion, and financial incentives.

The Yemeni Teachers’ Syndicate warned of the dangers posed by these centers, stating they have become organized tools for sectarian ideological mobilization and the recruitment of children and youth, as part of a systematic targeting of national identity and the education system in Yemen.

In a statement dated Sunday, April 12, 2026, the syndicate said the group has expanded these centers since taking control of Sanaa to attract the largest number of students, using them to instill doctrinal ideas based on concepts of lineage-based selection that conflict with national and religious values and serve a political project threatening Yemen’s security and stability.

Neglected Schools, Flourishing Centers

In its messaging, the group describes the summer centers as an “educational support channel” to compensate for gaps caused by war. However, according to many teachers, this is nothing more than a worse excuse than the offense itself. Schools themselves could serve that role if there were genuine intent to reform education.

Teachers argue that the group’s insistence on these centers reveals that the goal is not education, but the production of a generation prepared for early recruitment and ideological mobilization. They pose a central question: if the group holds full control over formal education and has successfully inserted its ideology into school curricula, why deliberately neglect schools, leaving them in a state of near collapse, without teachers, salaries, or basic educational resources?

This contradiction between stagnating schools during the academic year and their sudden revival in summer raises serious questions.

While significant attention, funding, and effort are directed toward summer centers that quickly turn into active and crowded spaces, formal education remains in a state of severe stagnation and resource deprivation, with thousands of schools lacking even the most basic requirements for learning.


Meroe Pyramids Resist Destruction, Guard Sudan’s Heritage

Archaeologist Mohamed Mubarak walks past pyramids standing in the Meroe desert, at one of the archaeological sites of the so-called Island of Meroe on the eastern shore of the Nile River, about 220 km north of Khartoum, on April 22, 2026. (Photo by KHALED DESOUKI / AFP)
Archaeologist Mohamed Mubarak walks past pyramids standing in the Meroe desert, at one of the archaeological sites of the so-called Island of Meroe on the eastern shore of the Nile River, about 220 km north of Khartoum, on April 22, 2026. (Photo by KHALED DESOUKI / AFP)
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Meroe Pyramids Resist Destruction, Guard Sudan’s Heritage

Archaeologist Mohamed Mubarak walks past pyramids standing in the Meroe desert, at one of the archaeological sites of the so-called Island of Meroe on the eastern shore of the Nile River, about 220 km north of Khartoum, on April 22, 2026. (Photo by KHALED DESOUKI / AFP)
Archaeologist Mohamed Mubarak walks past pyramids standing in the Meroe desert, at one of the archaeological sites of the so-called Island of Meroe on the eastern shore of the Nile River, about 220 km north of Khartoum, on April 22, 2026. (Photo by KHALED DESOUKI / AFP)

Mostafa Ahmed Mostafa is the heir to a long line of groundskeepers who have guarded Sudan's ancient pyramids of Meroe. Now, three years into the war between the army and paramilitary forces, he stands near-solitary sentinel over his heritage.

"These pyramids are ours, it's our history, it's who we are," the 65-year-old said, flanked by the dark sandstone structures of the Bajrawiya necropolis, which is part of the Island of Meroe, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Clad all in white, Mostafa cut a striking figure crossing the 2,400-year-old burial site, which holds 140 pyramids built during the Kingdom of Kush's Meroitic period.

None are intact. Some were decapitated, others reduced to rubble, first in the 1800s by dynamite at the hands of treasure-hunting Europeans, and then by two centuries of sand and rain.

A three-hour drive from the capital Khartoum, it was once Sudan's most visited heritage site. Now three years into the war between Sudan's army and the Rapid Support Forces, only a lone camel's grunt cuts through the silence.

Archaeologist and site director Mahmoud Soliman gave AFP journalists a tour, explaining the Kush kingdom's matrilineal succession, trade routes and relationship with neighboring Egypt.

"It's maybe the fourth time I've shown people around since the war broke out," the scientist said.

Together, he, Mostafa and young archaeologist Mohamed Mubarak man the site, cobbling together resources to keep the erosive rain and sands at bay.

Apart from a short-lived influx of visitors early in the war -- mostly displaced people desperate for something to do -- the site has stood largely abandoned.

It is worlds away from its pre-war days, when there were "regular weekend visits from Khartoum, busloads of 200 people per day", Soliman remembered fondly.

Sudan's heritage sites had experienced a resurgence, he explained, after the uprising of 2018-2019, when young Sudanese protested against Omar al-Bashir.

One chant went: "My grandfather Taharqa, my grandmother Kandaka" -- the former a Kush Pharaoh, the latter the name for ancient queens, and also used to honor the women icons of the revolution.

"Young people were taking more of an interest, they were organizing trips to tourist sites and getting to know their own country," Soliman said.

Sudanese site director Mahmoud Soliman gestures inside a tomb beneath a pyramid at one of the archaeological sites of the so-called Island of Meroe, on the eastern shore of the Nile River, about 220 km north of Khartoum, on April 22, 2026. (Photo by KHALED DESOUKI / AFP)

Residents of the nearby Tarabil village -- named after the local word for "pyramids" -- sold souvenirs and rented camels and "were entirely dependent on the site".

On a breezy day in April, Khaled Abdelrazek, 45, rushed to the site as soon as he heard there were visitors. He squatted at the entrance, showed AFP journalists handmade miniature sandstone pyramids and reminisced about when there were "dozens of us selling".

In the months before the war, there were visits from documentary crews, a music festival and "big ideas for right after Eid al-Fitr", said Soliman -- all destroyed when the war broke out in the last days of Ramadan.

"I used to feel like I was teaching people about their culture," said Mubarak, who has worked at the site since 2018.

"Now, everyone's top priority is of course food and water and shelter. But this is also important. We need to protect this for future generations, we can't let it be destroyed or wither away."

Near the site's entrance, the proud pyramids, each fronted by a small mortuary temple, are framed by rolling black sandstone hills.

The vista is breathtaking, but Soliman said his eyes see only danger: Is that crack in that pyramid new? Has that sand mound moved? Does the pipe scaffolding at that burial chamber entrance need to be redone before the rainy season?

"I think if the pyramids had been left in their original state we wouldn't have all these problems," Mubarak said.

The structures are smaller and steeper than their Egyptian neighbors, built to "withstand the sands and sweep away the rainwater, but every fracture creates issues".

Local site guard Mostafa Ahmed speaks in front of pyramids standing in the Meroe desert, at one of the archaeological sites of the so-called Island of Meroe on the eastern shore of the Nile River, about 220 km north of Khartoum, on April 22, 2026. (Photo by KHALED DESOUKI / AFP)

The largest pyramid of the lot -- of Queen Amanishakheto, who reigned around the 1st century AD -- suffered more than just fractures and is now effectively a sandbox, fine sand swirling where her tomb once stood.

In 1834, Italian adventurer Giuseppe Ferlini, who destroyed dozens of pyramids, levelled Amanishakheto's and carted her jewelry off to Europe. It is now exhibited in the Egyptian museums in Berlin and Munich.

The outside of her temple wall still stands, where a larger-than-life carving of the queen shows her standing proud, holding a spear in one hand and smiting enemy captives.

Soliman showed AFP journalists more reliefs: the lion deity Apademak and motifs shared with Egypt, including the gods Amun and Anubis, lotus flowers and hieroglyphics.

He yearns for the day tourists and archeologists will return.

"This is just a distant dream, but I'd really like us to one day be able to do proper restoration on these pyramids," he said, as if he were not really allowing himself to hope.

"This place has so much potential."


Iran’s Guards Seize Wartime Power, Blunting Supreme Leader’s Role

Iran's Interior Minister Ahmad Vahidi briefs the media on elections in Tehran, Iran, March 4, 2024. (AP)
Iran's Interior Minister Ahmad Vahidi briefs the media on elections in Tehran, Iran, March 4, 2024. (AP)
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Iran’s Guards Seize Wartime Power, Blunting Supreme Leader’s Role

Iran's Interior Minister Ahmad Vahidi briefs the media on elections in Tehran, Iran, March 4, 2024. (AP)
Iran's Interior Minister Ahmad Vahidi briefs the media on elections in Tehran, Iran, March 4, 2024. (AP)

Two months into a war with the US and Israel, Iran no longer has a single, undisputed clerical arbiter at the pinnacle of power — an abrupt break with the past that may be hardening Tehran’s stance as it weighs renewed talks with Washington.

Since its creation in 1979, the Islamic Republic has revolved around a supreme leader with final authority on all key matters of state. But the killing of Ali Khamenei on the first day of the war, and the elevation of his wounded son, Mojtaba, have ushered in a different order dominated by commanders of the Iranian Revolutionary Guard Corps (IRGC) and marked by the absence of a decisive, authoritative referee.

Mojtaba Khamenei remains at the apex of the system, but three people familiar with internal deliberations say his role is largely to legitimize decisions made by his generals rather than issue directives himself.

Wartime pressure has concentrated power into a narrower, harder-line inner circle rooted in the Supreme National Security Council (SNSC), the Supreme Leader’s office and the IRGC, which now dominates both military strategy and key political decisions, Iranian officials and analysts say.

"The Iranians are painfully slow in their response," said a senior Pakistani government official briefed on peace talks between Iran and the United States that Islamabad has been mediating. "There is apparently no one decision-making command structure. At times, it takes them 2 to 3 days to respond."

Analysts said the obstacle to a deal is not internal infighting in Tehran, but the gap between what Washington is prepared to offer ‌and what Iran’s hardline ‌Guards were willing to accept.

The diplomatic face of Iran at the talks with the US has been Foreign Minister Abbas Araghchi, more ‌recently joined ⁠by parliament speaker Mohammed ⁠Baqer Qalibaf -- a former Guards commander, Tehran mayor and presidential candidate -- who has emerged during the war as a key conduit between Iran’s political, security and clerical elites.

On the ground, however, the central interlocutor has been IRGC commander Ahmad Vahidi, according to a Pakistani and two Iranian sources who identified him weeks ago as Iran's pivotal figure, including on the night a ceasefire was announced.

Mojtaba, who was severely injured in the opening Israeli and US strike that killed his father and other relatives and left him disfigured with serious leg wounds, has not appeared publicly and communicates through IRGC aides or limited audio links because of security constraints, two people close to his inner circle said.

There was no immediate reply from the Iranian foreign ministry to a request for comment on the issues raised in this article. Iranian officials have previously denied any divisions over negotiations with the United States.

People ride motorcycles near a billboard featuring an image of Iran's new Supreme Leader Mojtaba Khamenei, amid a ceasefire between US and Iran, in Tehran, Iran, April 20, 2026. Majid Asgaripour/WANA (West Asia News Agency) via Reuters

REAL POWER WIELDED BY WARTIME LEADERSHIP, INSIDERS SAY

Iran submitted a new proposal to Washington on Monday, which according to senior Iranian sources envisions staged talks, with the nuclear issue ⁠to be set aside at the start until the war ends and disputes over Gulf shipping are resolved. Washington insists the nuclear issue ‌must be addressed from the outset.

"Neither side wants to negotiate," said Alan Eyre, an Iran expert and former US diplomat, adding ‌that both believed time would weaken the other -- Iran through leverage over Hormuz and Washington through economic pressure and a blockade.

For now, neither side can afford to bend, Eyre said: Iran’s IRGC is wary of ‌appearing weak to Washington, while President Donald Trump faces midterm election pressure and little room for flexibility without political cost.

"For either, flexibility would be seen as weakness," Eyre said.

That caution reflects not ‌just the pressures of the moment, but the way power is now exercised inside Iran.

While Mojtaba is formally Iran's ultimate authority, he is a figure of assent rather than command, insiders say, endorsing outcomes forged through institutional consensus, rather than imposing authority. Real power, they say, has moved to a unified wartime leadership centered on the SNSC.

"Important deals probably pass through him," Iranian analyst Arash Azizi said, "but I can’t see him overruling the National Security Council. How could he go against those running the war effort?"

Hardline figures such as former nuclear negotiator Saeed Jalili and a cluster of radical MPs have raised their profile using forceful rhetoric during the war, but ‌they lack the institutional clout to derail decisions or shape outcomes.

Mojtaba owes his elevation to the Guards, who sidelined pragmatists and backed him as a reliable guardian of their hardline agenda. Already strengthened by war, the Guards’ growing dominance signals a more aggressive foreign policy ⁠and tighter domestic repression, sources familiar with the country's inner ⁠policy-making circles told Reuters.

Driven by revolutionary sectarian ideology and a security-first worldview, the Guards see their mission as preserving the regime at home while projecting deterrence abroad.

That outlook, often shared with hardliners across the judiciary and the clerical establishment, prioritizes rigid centralized control and resistance to Western pressure, particularly on nuclear policy and Iran’s regional reach.

POWER SHIFTS FROM CLERICS TO SECURITY SECTOR, ANALYSTS SAY

In practice, the Guards' ideology shapes strategy and decision-making rests firmly in their hands. With the country at war and Ali Khamenei gone, no actor inside the system has the power or scope to resist them, even if they wished to, the people close to internal discussions said.

The choice facing Iran’s leadership is no longer between moderate and hardline policy, but between hardline and even harder line. A small faction may argue for pushing further still, two Iranian sources close to power circles said, but even that impulse has so far been kept in check by the Guards.

The shift marks a decisive reordering of power from clerical primacy to security dominance. "We’ve gone from divine power to hard power," said Aaron David Miller, a former US negotiator. "From the influence of the clerics to the influence of the Revolutionary Guard Corps. This is how Iran is being governed."

While differences of opinion exist, decision-making has consolidated around security institutions, with Mojtaba acting as a central convening figure rather than a lone decider, added Alex Vatanka, senior fellow at the Middle East Institute. Despite sustained military and economic pressure from the United States and Israel, Iran has shown no signs of fracture or capitulation nearly nine weeks into the war.

Nor, as Miller noted, is there evidence of fundamental rifts within the system or meaningful opposition on the streets.

That cohesion suggests that command now sits with the Guards and security services, which appear to be driving the war rather than merely executing it. A strategic consensus has emerged — avoid a return to full-scale war, preserve leverage, especially over the Strait of Hormuz, and emerge from the conflict politically, economically and militarily stronger, Miller said.