Lebanon’s Drug Empire Faces Beginning of Its End

A Saudi Anti-Narcotics official displays bags of Captagon pills seized in Jeddah hidden inside a shipment of pomegranates, April 25 (AFP)
A Saudi Anti-Narcotics official displays bags of Captagon pills seized in Jeddah hidden inside a shipment of pomegranates, April 25 (AFP)
TT

Lebanon’s Drug Empire Faces Beginning of Its End

A Saudi Anti-Narcotics official displays bags of Captagon pills seized in Jeddah hidden inside a shipment of pomegranates, April 25 (AFP)
A Saudi Anti-Narcotics official displays bags of Captagon pills seized in Jeddah hidden inside a shipment of pomegranates, April 25 (AFP)

A sense of optimism is growing within Lebanon’s security establishment that 2026 could mark the end of the country’s “drug world,” a shadow economy born out of the Lebanese civil war and fueled by the conflicts that followed.

Those wars created an ideal environment for the trade to flourish, turning Lebanon and Syria into hubs for narcotics trafficking that spread across borders through Jordan and into the Gulf, particularly Saudi Arabia.

The Kingdom is a main target of traffickers who moved their illicit goods along smuggling routes known as “tracks,” amassing fortunes that went on to finance states and militias.

This optimism stems from major developments along the Lebanese-Syrian border following the fall of the previous Syrian regime and the withdrawal of the army’s elite Fourth Division, which had long maintained control there.

The departure of that force led to the expulsion of drug traffickers who had operated from what security officials called the “gray zone” inside Syrian territory.

A senior Lebanese security official told Asharq Al-Awsat that the war in Syria had been “the spark that ignited the drug trade,” while the war’s end has signaled “the beginning of its demise,” after coordinated operations struck the trade at every level, from production and storage to distribution.

The border areas on the Syrian side had served as a safe haven for drug traffickers between 2023 and 2024. Many had settled in villages, buying houses under the protection of Syrian security forces, particularly the Fourth Division, which acted as their commercial partner. With the regime’s collapse, the traffickers fled back to Lebanon, where they became easy prey for the Lebanese army. Military intelligence units pursued them relentlessly — arresting some, killing others.

Development as a Weapon

According to Lebanese security assessments, a lasting end to the drug trade will require not only security pressure but also “a dose of development” in Lebanon’s deprived regions, mainly the Bekaa Valley and Akkar.

Officials say development projects must complement the army’s and security forces’ relentless crackdowns by addressing the deep poverty that traffickers have long exploited to justify their activities and recruit locals.

For decades, the smuggling routes that run through these neglected areas have shaped livelihoods. Some traffickers built reputations as “Robin Hoods,” showering locals with gifts and grants in exchange for silence and loyalty. But their generosity comes at a price.

A Lebanese security source told Asharq Al-Awsat that one well-known drug lord, for example, had paid the tuition fees of several university students — only to later turn them into campus distributors.

The Boom Years and the Rise of ‘Robin Hood’

Before the Syrian crisis, Lebanon’s drug trade was estimated at around 1.3 million pills. That figure surged to three million during the war, before dropping to about 400,000.

“They were outlaws who rose to power — and we turned them back into outlaws,” a Lebanese security official said.

The “golden age” of drug traffickers in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley returned after the country’s financial collapse in late 2019, which coincided with a crippling political paralysis following the end of former President Michel Aoun’s term and delays in electing his successor.

Traffickers seized on the despair of impoverished locals in regions long neglected by the state, especially in areas where chronic deprivation had persisted well before the currency crash. Residents say political leaders’ neglect had become a way of life.

Many young men fell into the grip of the trade, especially after the rise of the “new star” of the drug world — Captagon — which flooded Lebanon as both a manufactured and exported product after 2011, directly linked to the Syrian conflict.

Syrian traffickers and influential figures in government and security circles on both sides of the porous Lebanese-Syrian border played key roles.

The major dealers soon gained social, and at times political, influence. Some ran for or considered running in elections. Others portrayed themselves as benevolent outlaws, “Robin Hoods” who took from the rich and gave to the poor.

They funded irrigation and electricity projects, offered social assistance, mediated legal troubles for locals, and used their connections with politicians to secure jobs.

In effect, their mini-state kept expanding and benefiting from overlaps with powerful groups operating on both sides of the border.

The equation was simple: export drugs to the “enemy camp” to earn foreign currency, while the lucrative commissions from this trade helped finance a state — or a quasi-state.

As one trafficker boasted, “I only need one shipment out of ten to make it through — and I’m set.”

The Captagon Story

Captagon is often described as a “revolution” in the drug world. Unlike cannabis or opium, it needs no farmland. It is not bound by seasons, and its production, packaging, and smuggling are easy to conceal, often escaping traditional detection methods used by scanners and police dogs.

But while distribution and smuggling can be kept secret, production is harder to hide. Manufacturing Captagon requires specialized laboratories that emit strong, unpleasant odors during the process, making concealment difficult.

To overcome that, producers often lured powerful figures with money and convinced property owners in remote areas to rent out their buildings.

Traffickers also benefited from operating in what they called “the gray zone,” a loophole in countries that had not yet classified Captagon as an illegal narcotic, including Lebanon itself.

When security forces arrested traffickers, they often charged them with possessing other contraband items, such as weapons or different drugs, rather than Captagon itself.

The ‘Kings of the Tracks’ and the Secret Formulas

Captagon first spread in Iraq and Syria, where long-distance truck drivers used it to stay awake and alert during grueling journeys. By the early 2000s, it had gained recognition as a recreational drug. Between 2007 and 2011, a new class of traffickers emerged — the so-called “kings of the tracks” — who controlled the routes carrying Captagon from factories to consumers, particularly across the Gulf.

Production initially centered in border areas on the Syrian side. But as the Syrian conflict escalated, many traffickers relocated to Lebanon, setting up factories in partnership with local counterparts.

Interestingly, the Syrian traffickers guarded their manufacturing secrets closely, never sharing the exact formula with their Lebanese partners. Lebanese military intelligence — which spearheaded operations in the Bekaa Valley and border regions — later obtained confessions from captured dealers confirming this. Some Lebanese producers eventually discovered the formula, or came close enough to replicate it, leading to a surge in “knockoff” pills of lower quality.

The profits were enormous. A single pill costing less than 20 cents to make could sell for $20 — and up to $50 at retail prices. The huge margins drew new players into the trade.

When the war broke out in Syria, extremist groups took over border zones and destroyed the factories. Many traffickers fled to government-held areas or to Lebanon. But between 2012 and 2014, those same groups realized the profit potential and turned to Captagon as a major source of funding.

The years 2012 to 2023 marked the height of Captagon’s boom. Production and trafficking flourished, dominated by four or five top smugglers who monopolized the Gulf trade. Rivalries grew, with some traffickers roasting the pills to resemble desert sand, while others added logos and colors to give their products distinctive “brands.”

The Syrian Regime’s Entry — and Wagner’s Role

By mid-2012, influential figures within the Syrian regime had entered the Captagon trade. They did not take part directly in production or distribution but facilitated the movement of shipments across Syrian territory by issuing “permits” that allowed trucks to pass in exchange for fixed fees per crate.

At the time, Captagon traffickers traveled freely around the world, yet Beirut remained their favorite destination. Many opened restaurants and cafés in the Lebanese capital that served as perfect fronts for laundering drug money.

The production and distribution process followed several stages, starting with the purchase of raw materials.

Most materials were legally available on the market because they had legitimate uses in medicine, cleaning agents, pesticides, and fertilizers.

Traffickers bought them through supermarket owners or importers, paying premium prices to ensure cooperation. Even the machinery required for production was easy to acquire, as it was commonly used by pharmaceutical and chemical companies.

Most factories were based in Syrian border regions, but during the war, some were moved into Lebanon’s rugged mountains.

Remote houses, abandoned workshops, and livestock farms were rented at high prices and converted into makeshift labs. Some Syrian villages, such as Jarmash, became known as safe havens for dealers fleeing Lebanese security forces.

During the Syrian war, the trade thrived as never before. The Lebanese-Syrian and Syrian-Jordanian borders slipped out of government control, and despite the fighting, traffickers maintained good relations with all sides.

Everyone profited — from local militias to the Syrian regime, Russia, Iran, and Hezbollah — all of whom were waging difficult battles and relied on the same smuggling routes used for narcotics to move weapons, equipment, and sometimes fighters into besieged areas.

Russia’s Wagner Group even established an air bridge to transport Captagon to Libya, charging around $5,000 per crate.

Between 2014 and 2020, many traffickers relocated to Lebanon, exploiting the turmoil in border areas seized by extremist factions and Lebanon’s own deep political divisions. With economic hardship spreading, more people turned to the trade, resulting in a flood of lower-quality products.

During that period, the Lebanese army’s grip on the border weakened, especially after it suffered losses and kidnappings at the hands of militant groups. Smugglers took advantage, carving out their own routes and, in some cases, buying influence in politics by financing or backing candidates in elections.

The Declaration of the War on Drugs

As Lebanon’s security situation began to stabilize and drug traffickers grew bolder, the Lebanese authorities declared war on narcotics.

In the Bekaa Valley and along the Syrian border, the Lebanese army took the lead, while the Internal Security Forces assumed responsibility for operations inside the country and at ports.

Army intelligence spearheaded the campaign in the Bekaa, raiding Captagon factories and dismantling production lines. But once-peaceful traffickers turned violent. Few raids ended without clashes between the army and drug gangs. The fugitives then retreated deep into the rugged mountain areas, where troops pursued them relentlessly.

A senior security official told Asharq Al-Awsat that traffickers had offered large bribes to officers and anti-narcotics officials to halt operations, especially after the first year of confrontations inflicted losses estimated at around $200 million.

To evade army raids, traffickers shifted to using mobile labs mounted on trucks that could be moved quickly between sites. Yet the design had a fatal flaw: once production began, the trucks became slow and vulnerable to detection.

The War on Kingpins and the Battle of Abu Sallah

Lebanon’s war on drugs soon evolved into a war on the kingpins themselves. The army began targeting major gang leaders, even carrying out drone and airstrikes against some of them.

One of the most dramatic operations was the raid targeting the country’s most notorious drug lord in the Bekaa Valley, known as Abu Sallah, whose real name is Ali Mounzer Zeaiter. The raid sent a clear message to the underworld, forcing many traffickers to disappear under mounting security pressure.

Zeaiter earned the nickname Abu Sallah early in his career, when he would lower a basket tied to a rope from his apartment balcony to collect cash and deliver drugs to customers — a primitive system that became his signature. Operating from Beirut’s eastern suburbs, he later built a vast network and amassed enough power to command what security sources described as a small private army of gunmen and dealers.

When army intelligence planned to capture him, they discovered he had set up 346 surveillance points to protect himself, a mix of cameras mounted on poles and disguised “express cafés” along every road leading to his residence, designed to alert him to any approaching force.

After eight months of planning, the army launched the operation during a dinner Abu Sallah was hosting for his associates. Intelligence officers managed to take control of some surveillance cameras and redirect them away from the target area. The head of army intelligence in the Bekaa even helped create a diversion by taking his wife to a restaurant in Beirut known to be monitored by Abu Sallah’s informants.

The operation was conducted under strict secrecy and only seven people knew of the plan. The target was code-named “Marlboro” to prevent any leaks.

Abu Sallah escaped the ambush by using his wife as a human shield, killing a soldier, and fleeing toward Syria. He later returned after the regime’s collapse, only to be tracked down by the army, which killed him in an airstrike on his vehicle.

According to Lebanese security assessments, Abu Sallah had been the country’s number one trafficker. He had extensive influence in universities and schools — his prime retail markets — where he paid tuition fees for students or enrolled his own associates to promote drugs among their peers.



Why Metal Prices are Soaring to Record Highs

A salesman displays gold chains at an Indian jewelry store in September. Idrees MOHAMMED / AFP
A salesman displays gold chains at an Indian jewelry store in September. Idrees MOHAMMED / AFP
TT

Why Metal Prices are Soaring to Record Highs

A salesman displays gold chains at an Indian jewelry store in September. Idrees MOHAMMED / AFP
A salesman displays gold chains at an Indian jewelry store in September. Idrees MOHAMMED / AFP

Precious and industrial metals are surging to record highs as the year ends, driven by economic and geopolitical uncertainty, robust industrial demand and, in some cases, tight supply.

Below AFP examines the reasons for the surge in demand.

- Safe havens -

Gold and silver are traditionally seen as safe-haven assets, and demand has soared amid mounting geopolitical tensions, from US President Donald Trump's tariffs onslaught to wars in Ukraine and Gaza, as well as recent pressure by Washington on Caracas.

Investors are also uneasy about rising public debt in major economies and the risk of a bubble in the artificial intelligence sector.

These uncertainties are driving up gold and silver, with other metals now starting to see the impact as investors seek to diversify their portfolios, explained John Plassard, an analyst at Cite Gestion Private Bank.

"Metal is once again becoming insurance rather than just a speculative asset," he told AFP.

- A weak dollar -

Traditional safe havens like the dollar and US Treasuries have become less attractive this year.

Uncertainty around Trump's presidency and the prospect of further Federal Reserve interest rate cuts, have weakened the dollar, reducing its appeal to investors.

As a result, many investors are turning to gold and silver.

Gold has climbed more than 70 percent this year and passed $4,500 an ounce for the first time on Wednesday, while silver reached a record high of $72 an ounce, with prices up about 2.5 times since January.

A weak dollar is also boosting industrial metals, since commodities priced in dollars become cheaper for buyers when the currency falls.

- Fresh demand -

Industrial demand has surged in recent months, driven by the rise of artificial intelligence and the energy transition.

Copper, used for solar panels, wind turbines, electric vehicle batteries and data centers, has seen strong gains as a result.

Prices hit a record on Wednesday, topping $12,000 a ton, helped further by China, the world's largest copper consumer, announcing new measures to boost demand.

Aluminium, a cheaper alternative to copper, and silver are also benefiting from the AI boom and the shift to renewable energy.

Platinum and palladium, used in car catalytic converters, have also risen, reaching a record high and a three-year high respectively, after the European Union decided to allow sales of new internal combustion vehicles beyond 2035.

- Tight supply -

Copper prices have been lifted this year by fears of US tariffs, prompting companies to stockpile ahead of their introduction, with duties imposed on semi-finished products and potentially extending to refined copper.

Supply risks from disruptions at mines in the Democratic Republic of Congo, Chile and Indonesia have added to the price surge.

Physical markets for silver, platinum, and aluminium are also tight.

According to Ole Hansen, an analyst at Saxo Bank, thin holiday trading, which increases volatility, and investor fear of missing out have further amplified the rise at the end of the year.


How Trump’s Decisions Reshaped Syria

A photo of US President Donald Trump meeting Syrian President Ahmed al-Sharaa in Washington on Nov. 10 (AFP)
A photo of US President Donald Trump meeting Syrian President Ahmed al-Sharaa in Washington on Nov. 10 (AFP)
TT

How Trump’s Decisions Reshaped Syria

A photo of US President Donald Trump meeting Syrian President Ahmed al-Sharaa in Washington on Nov. 10 (AFP)
A photo of US President Donald Trump meeting Syrian President Ahmed al-Sharaa in Washington on Nov. 10 (AFP)

In a crowded regional and international landscape shaped by overlapping security, strategic, economic, and political pressures, the administration of US President Donald Trump has moved since its return to the White House in January 2025 to recalibrate its approach to Syria.

After years of US policy marked by hesitation and competing agendas, particularly under the administrations of Barack Obama and Joe Biden, Washington is now pursuing a more direct and openly pragmatic course, one focused on achieving tangible results on the ground and managing delicate balances, rather than ideological commitments or long-term strategic gambles.

The shift reflects profound changes inside Syria itself, led by the collapse of the former regime and the emergence of a new government seeking to consolidate domestic legitimacy and secure international recognition.

These developments coincide with the persistent threat posed by ISIS, a retreat in Iranian influence, and the expanding regional roles of Saudi Arabia, Türkiye, and Qatar.

Within this evolving landscape, Washington is repositioning its policy in line with what officials describe as Trump’s Middle East doctrine, centered on enforcing stability, limiting the costs of direct military involvement, and opening pathways for reconstruction, development, and investment.

Interests before ideology

Commenting on this shift, Firas Fahham, a researcher at the Abaad Studies Center, said President Trump’s policy toward Syria could be described as “decidedly pragmatic,” focusing primarily on international and economic interests while setting aside the ideological or intellectual background of Syria’s new government.

Fahham said the central pillar of the emerging convergence between Washington and Damascus was preventing the return of Iranian influence to Syria, a goal that sits at the top of the current US administration’s priorities.

He added that this approach could not be separated from the positions of Arab states allied with the United States, which have openly supported the new Syrian government, led by Saudi Arabia, followed by Türkiye and Qatar.

Fahham said the Trump administration had shown a willingness to respond to these positions, viewing them as a key foundation for rebuilding regional alliances.

Comparing the approach with previous administrations, Fahham said the policies of Obama and Biden had been closer to allowing Iran a free hand in the region and supporting minority influence, particularly through close cooperation with the Syrian Democratic Forces, known as the SDF.

He said this had complicated the landscape and weakened prospects for establishing a strong central state capable of maintaining security and preventing the return of extremist groups.

From Riyadh to Washington...turning points

Fahham traced key milestones in Trump’s new policy, saying the starting point came during meetings held in Riyadh in June, when the US president, at the request of Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, announced the lifting of sanctions on Syria.

He described the move as the first positive signal from Washington toward Damascus. This was followed by a trilateral meeting bringing together Trump, the Saudi Crown Prince, and Syrian President Ahmed al-Sharaa, during which the US president offered notable praise for his Syrian counterpart, reflecting Washington’s desire for political openness.

The most important moment, Fahham said, came at the Washington summit held in November, when Trump received President al-Sharaa at the White House in what he described as a pivotal turning point.

Following the meeting, the US administration began concrete efforts to pressure Congress to repeal the Caesar Act, while announcing Syria’s inclusion in the international coalition against ISIS.

This, Fahham said, shifted the relationship from limited coordination to something resembling an alliance.

The SDF and the future of eastern Syria

On the issue of the Syrian Democratic Forces, Fahham said the Trump administration was dealing with the matter from a strictly practical standpoint, balancing its interests with Syria’s new government, reflected in reduced support for the SDF compared with the Biden era, and its interests with its Turkish ally.

Washington, he said, now views Damascus as the most effective actor in the fight against ISIS.

This assessment, he said, was based on recommendations from US research centers. They concluded that previous reliance on the Kurdish component alone, and practices associated with it in eastern Syria, had created a sense of grievance that ISIS later exploited for recruitment.

As a result, the administration became convinced that cooperation with Damascus was more effective.

In a related context, Fahham said Washington viewed Israeli incursions in southern Syria with dissatisfaction, considering them destabilizing and contrary to Trump’s vision for regional development.

The United States, he added, fears that weakening the Syrian government could reopen the door to renewed Iranian influence and ISIS activity.

As for the southern province of Sweida, Fahham said the US administration supports integrating the province into the state, citing remarks by US envoy Tom Barrack, who stated that decentralization had failed in the Middle East, reflecting a preference for backing a unified Syria.

A parallel reading from the military establishment

From another angle, researcher on armed groups Raed al-Hamed offered a complementary reading of the US position.

He said that although Trump, during his first term, had moved toward withdrawing forces and ending the partnership with the SDF, warnings from senior military commanders about a possible ISIS resurgence after the battle of Baghouz in March 2019 prompted him to keep about 2,000 troops in Syria.

Al-Hamed noted that the partnership with the SDF dated back to the battle of Kobani in 2015, when Washington relied on the group as a ground force.

However, he said the new policy following the fall of Bashar al-Assad’s regime and Syria’s entry into the international coalition was now based on refusing to recognize any independent entity east of the Euphrates and rejecting federal formulas similar to Iraq’s Kurdistan region.

Al-Hamed said the new policy offered no real US guarantees to the SDF in the face of Türkiye and coincided with pressure to integrate the group into Syria’s military and security institutions, in line with the vision of the Syrian government, which rejects any armed presence outside the framework of the state.

This, he said, is still rejected by the SDF as the deadline approaches for implementing the March agreement with the government in Damascus, scheduled for the end of this year.

Overall, the Syrian scene appears to have entered a pivotal phase that goes beyond traditional conflict equations, laying the groundwork for a new reality governed by the language of interests and reciprocal security arrangements.

While Washington and its regional allies, particularly Riyadh and Ankara, are betting on the ability of the new leadership in Damascus to impose stability and end years of chaos, observers say the success of this path will depend on developments on the ground in the coming months.

The ability of the “new republic” to balance the demands of internal reconciliation with the conditions of external alliances will be the decisive test in determining whether this turn truly marks the opening chapter of an end to years of US hesitation in the region.


Thousands Flock to Bethlehem to Revive Christmas Spirit after 2 Years of War in Gaza

 Palestinian scout bands parade toward the Manger Square near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Wednesday, Dec. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)
Palestinian scout bands parade toward the Manger Square near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Wednesday, Dec. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)
TT

Thousands Flock to Bethlehem to Revive Christmas Spirit after 2 Years of War in Gaza

 Palestinian scout bands parade toward the Manger Square near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Wednesday, Dec. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)
Palestinian scout bands parade toward the Manger Square near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Wednesday, Dec. 24, 2025. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)

Thousands of people flocked to Bethlehem's Manger Square on Christmas Eve as families heralded a much-needed boost of holiday spirit. The giant Christmas tree that was absent during the Israel-Hamas war returned on Wednesday, overlooking a parade of scouts playing songs on bagpipes.

The city where Christians believe Jesus was born cancelled Christmas celebrations for the past two years. Manger Square had instead featured a nativity scene of baby Jesus surrounded by rubble and barbed wire in homage to the situation in Gaza, The AP news reported.

Cardinal Pierbattista Pizzaballa, the top Catholic leader in the Holy Land, kicked off this year's celebrations during the traditional procession from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, calling for “a Christmas full of light.”

Arriving in Manger Square, Pizzaballa said he came bearing greetings from Gaza's tiny Christian community, where he held a pre-Christmas Mass on Sunday. Among the devastation, he saw a desire to rebuild.

“We, all together, we decide to be the light, and the light of Bethlehem is the light of the world,” he told thousands of people, Christian and Muslim.

Despite the holiday cheer, the impact of the war in the Israeli-occupied West Bank is acute, especially in Bethlehem, where around 80% of the Muslim-majority city’s residents depend upon tourism-related businesses, according to the local government.

The vast majority of people celebrating were residents, with a handful of foreigners in the crowd. But some residents said they are starting to see signs of change as tourism slowly returns.

Loss of tourism devastates Bethlehem “Today is a day of joy, a day of hope, the beginning of the return of normal life here,” said Bethlehem resident Georgette Jackaman, a tour guide who has not worked in more than two years.

She and her husband, Michael Jackaman, another guide, are from established Christian Bethlehem families that stretch back generations. This is the first real Christmas celebration for their two children, aged 2 1/2 and 10 months.

During the war, the Jackamans pivoted to create a website selling Palestinian handicrafts to try to support others who have lost their livelihoods.

During the Gaza war, the unemployment rate in the city jumped from 14% to 65%, Bethlehem Mayor Maher Nicola Canawati said earlier this month.

A visitor from France, Mona Riewer, said that “I came because I wanted to better understand what people in Palestine are going through, and you can sense people have been through a very hard time."

Although friends and family cautioned her against coming due to the volatile situation, Riewer said being in Bethlehem helped her appreciate the meaning of the holiday.

“Christmas is like hope in very dark situations, a very vulnerable child experiencing harshness,” she said.

Despite the Gaza ceasefire that began in October, tensions remain high across much of the West Bank.

Israel’s military continues to carry out frequent raids in what it says is a crackdown on militants. Attacks by Israeli settlers against Palestinians have reached their highest level since the United Nations humanitarian office started collecting data in 2006. Israel captured the West Bank in the 1967 Mideast war.

The internationally recognized Palestinian Authority has limited autonomy in parts of the territory, including Bethlehem. Palestinian President Mahmoud Abbas is expected to attend midnight Mass for the first time in two years, the mayor said.

As poverty and unemployment have soared, about 4,000 people have left Bethlehem in search of work, the mayor said. It’s part of a worrying trend for Christians, who are leaving the region in droves.

Christians account for less than 2% of the West Bank’s roughly 3 million residents. Across the Middle East, the Christian population has steadily declined as people have fled conflict and attacks.

The beginning of a return to normal life Fadi Zoughbi, who previously worked overseeing logistics for tour groups, said his children were ecstatic to see marching bands streaming through Bethlehem's streets.

The scouts represent cities and towns across the West Bank, with Palestinian flags and tartan draped on their bagpipes, drummers spinning mallets adorned with pompoms. For the past two years, the scouts marched silently as a protest against the war.

Irene Kirmiz, who grew up in Bethlehem and now lives in Ramallah, said the scout parade is among her favorite Christmas traditions. Her 15-year-old daughter plays the tenor drum with the Ramallah scouts.

But her family had to wake up at 5 a.m. to arrive in time for the parade and waited upwards of three hours at Israeli checkpoints. The drive previously took 40 minutes without the checkpoints that have increasingly made travel difficult for Palestinians, she said.

“It's very emotional seeing people trying to bounce back, trying to celebrate peace and love,” Kirmiz said.

The Israeli Ministry of Tourism estimates 130,000 tourists will visit Israel by the end of December, including 40,000 Christians. In 2019, a banner year for tourism before the pandemic, the tourism ministry said 150,000 Christian tourists visited during Christmas week alone.

During the previous two years, the heads of churches in Jerusalem urged congregations to forgo “any unnecessarily festive activities.” They encouraged priests and the faithful to focus on Christmas’ spiritual meaning and called for “fervent prayers for a just and lasting peace for our beloved Holy Land.”